Yoghurt curry with meatballs (Kache dahi ki khadi kofte ke saat)

I grew up loving this recipe and have always thought it was Hyderabadi. On a recent visit, I asked my mother to make it for me and realized that it is a family recipe from the Bombay side of the family. It is still a favourite, and I was so glad to relive my childhood through this recipe.

This is a complex recipe that requires work to make, but the effort is worthwhile. The yoghurt is plain, almost boring, and the flavour is all in the meatballs (koftas). The spice mix is complex, and the texture of the koftas is perfect: crisp on the outside and melt-in-your-mouth soft on the inside. The temper finishes the dish beautifully. The magic in this dish is how it is served: hot koftas in cold curry, crisp koftas in a creamy sauce, and a beautiful balance of spices. This is still one of my favourite dishes.

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For the koftas:

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

3 teaspoons coriander seeds

3 green cardamom pods

4 cloves

6 black peppercorns

1/2-inch cinnamon stick

2 teaspoons poppy seeds

3 tablespoons split chickpeas (chana dal)

1 teaspoon chilli powder

1/4 teaspoon turmeric

12 cashew nuts, lightly toasted

6 garlic cloves

2 green chillies

3 tablespoons cilantro

1 onion, sliced

1 tablespoon yoghurt

Salt, to taste

1/2 lb ground mutton

1/4-1/2 cup water

Oil to deep fry

For the yoghurt curry:

6 cups yoghurt,

Salt, to taste

1 tablespoon oil

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

3 dried red chillies

Individually dry roast all the spices until they are lightly coloured and aromatic. Set aside to cool. When cooled completely, grind to a fine powder in a spice mill.

Add the remaining ingredients, including the mutton and spice powder, to a small blender and grind to a fine paste. Add just enough water to allow the ingredients to blend well. You are looking for a very smooth, thick paste. Do not make it runny, as you will not be able to make the meatballs.

Heat the oil and add a very small meatball to fry. Taste for salt and spice and adjust the mix as needed.

Make the meatballs with your hands, rolling them gently into ping-pong-sized balls. Do not overwork the meatballs, as they will become tough. Set aside on a plate wrapped in cling wrap for 30-45 minutes.

Heat the oil and fry the meatballs in 2-3 batches. Fry for 3-4 minutes until the meatballs are completely cooked through and deep brown on the outside. Set aside.

Make the yoghurt curry by whipping the yoghurt and salt until very smooth. Pour the curry into a shallow bowl. Add the hot meatballs to the curry, partially submerging them.

Heat the oil on a low flame. Add the cumin seeds and fry for 10 seconds. Add the dried chillies and toss well. Pour the oil over the curry.

Serve immediately.