White miso soup with red dulse and ginger

As soon as you sit in a Japanese restaurant, a bowl of miso soup magically appears. Everyone loves this delicately flavoured soup, which is served with 1-2 small pieces of tofu and, if you are lucky, a piece of seaweed. It is magical and sets the tone for the rest of the dinner. It is also super simple to make.

I wanted to delve into what makes a really good miso soup, and after some reading and trial and error, I came across this recipe. This soup is outstanding, light, and has the flavour of umami from the kombu stock, seaweed, and, of course, some vegetables. This soup will change how you view miso soup forever.

Let's also discuss red dulse. It is essentially a type of harvested and dried seaweed, usually with a slight salted flavour that comes naturally from the sea. I find it hard to get true red dulse, but most Japanese stores carry other dried dulse in green and white or a mixed bag. These are good substitutes.

Also, what is kombu? It is dried seaweed, the best variety being harvested in Hokkaido, Japan. This seaweed comes in small squares that are hard and coated in sea salt. It is responsible for the wonderful sea flavour in this soup. It is available in any Japanese store or on Amazon.

This is an excellent cookbook that specialises in soups for all seasons. Deborah Madison is one of the first chefs to start the farm-to-table movement in the Bay Area, and her recipes reflect her expertise with vegetables and fresh produce. I have a number of her wonderful cookbooks, each one a masterpiece. This book made me fall in love with soups and taught me how to make a great one.

For more wonderful soup recipes from this cookbook, click here. 

Ingredients:

1-2 strips of kombu, depending on size

1/2 cup bonito flakes (Can omit for a vegan and vegetarian version)

8 cups of water

4-5 thin slices of ginger

1/2 cup white miso, I have also used red or yellow miso

1 cup firm tofu, cut into tiny cubes

12-14 pieces of red dulse or other dried seaweed

1 carrot, cut into tiny pieces

1 cup frozen edamame

A few drops of sesame oil

2 scallions cut into thin circles

Add the kombu and water to a soup pot and bring to a boil. Allow to simmer for 1 minute, be precise, and turn off the heat. Add the bonito flakes and sit for 4 minutes. Remove the kombu and strain the dashi stock.

Add the dulse/seaweed to a small bowl and soak in water for 10-15 minutes. They will unfurl and turn soft.

In a pot, you can use the same one from above after a quick rinse with water, and heat the dashi with ginger, carrots, edamame, and tofu to a gentle simmer. Mash the miso in a bowl with the warm dashi to make a thick cream and smooth all the bits. Add this to the soup and gently simmer for 10 minutes. Add the dulse when ready, including the liquid they were soaked in. Taste the soup and adjust the salt and the flavour of the miso. Add more miso for a stronger flavour.

Note: Miso is a live culture (like yoghurt), and all its benefits are lost if it is boiled. Keep the heat low and gentle. Also, Miso and kombu have a lot of salt. You most probably will not need to add any salt to this dish.

To serve, stir the soup well; the goodness of miso tends to settle. Ladle the soup into bowls, making sure to include some of the carrots, tofu, and edamame. Top with a few scallions and a drop or two of sesame oil.