I love bitter gourds and bitter flavours in general. Included in that world are arugula, dandelion greens, coffee and chocolate, cruciferous vegetables like Brussels sprouts and more. This taste is controlled by genetics and is a complex world. Our basic sensitivity is enabled by our taste genes, each of which holds the DNA code for a particular kind of receptor protein on the tongue. There are two dozen bitter taste genes—far more than for any other basic taste—and each has many variations. The most well-studied of these is TAS2R38. The ability to taste a certain bitter chemical called 6-n-propylthiouracil, or PROP, reveals which version of this gene you have and whether you’re a “supertaster,” highly sensitive to bitterness and strong flavours in general, a “taster,” with moderate sensitivity; or a “nontaster,” unable to detect PROP and less sensitive overall.
Add human adaptability to this mix. We are the descendants of wandering hunter-gatherers with a powerful ability to learn from experience: Like them, we can train our palates and brains to extract some pleasure from almost any kind of food. A study of the Aymara, an indigenous people in the mountains of Peru, found that although their genes inclined them to despise bitterness, their diets depended on a highly bitter strain of potatoes. So they liked them. More here from Slate.
Many bitter compounds are good for you. Glucosinolates, for example, a family of bitter compounds present in broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and other cruciferous vegetables, have proven health benefits; among other things, they seem to play a role in cancer prevention.
This is a complex recipe with lots of steps, but the curry is phenomenal. The bitter gourd is soft and stuffed with the spices and masalas. The curry is mild and well-balanced with bitterness and spices. Together they come together beautifully.
This little cookbook that I picked up in Cochin many years ago is one of my favourites for Kerala cuisine. The recipes are packed in, this is not a glossy picture recipe book, but it makes up with its depth of wonderful and authentic recipes. It is also so cheap, you cannot resist but buy it, if you can find it after all these years. You will definitely see me publish from here more, as I have cooked a large part of this book over the decades.
For more wonderful recipes from this cookbook, click here.
Ingredients:
2-3 small bittergourds
6 cups water
1 teaspoon salt
For the stuffing:
2 tablespoons oil
1 large or 2 small onions, finely diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ginger paste
1 green chilli, minced, or to taste
8 curry leaves
1 teaspoon chilli powder, or to taste
2 tablespoons ground coriander seeds
A pinch of ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon caraway seeds (shah jeera)
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
Salt, to taste
For the curry:
3 tablespoons oil
1 cup coconut milk
1/2 cup water or as needed
1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
Salt, to taste
Make a cut along the length of the bitter gourd in the middle. Using a teaspoon or your fingers, gently scoop out the soft insides and seeds, making a pocket.
Add the bitter gourds to a pot with the water and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer for 45-60 minutes until the gourds are cooked and soft. For a less bitter dish, change the water after 30 minutes. Drain and set aside.
To make the stuffing, heat the oil is a wok or pot. Add the onions and sautè on low heat until they are lightly golden. Add the garlic, ginger, green chillies, and curry leaves and cook for 1 minute until the ginger no longer smells raw.
Add the chilli powder, ground coriander, ground cloves, ground cinnamon, caraway seeds, turmeric, and salt and mix well, cooking for 30 seconds. Take care not to burn the dry spices. Remove from the heat and cool completely.
Gently stuff the bitter gourds with the onion mix getting it quite full. Do not be forced to finish the entire mix, though.
Heat the oil in a frying pan on high heat. Add the stuffed bitter gourds, starting with the stuffed side down on the pan. Fry for 1 minute until the gourd and spices are browned, and the opening is sealed. Rotate the bitter gourds until all sides are browned.
In a shallow pot, add the coconut milk, water, vinegar, and salt. Add any excess stuffing and mix in well. Bring to a simmer, and add the bitter gourds, stuffed side up. Simmer gently for 5 minutes until the curry thickens. Remove from the heat.
Serve hot with rice or Malabar parathas.
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