Hyderabadi chicken with roselle leaves (Murg ambada)

Roselle leaves, locally called ambada, is a favourite across India. These leaves impart an intense tangy flavour to the dish that most cultures love. Sour foods are very, very traditional in India, and there are numerous vegetables and fruits that are used in the kitchen. The most common are lime and tamarind; the garcinia family includes kokum and kachampuli, which are common locally. A host of them are also prized for their tartness: green mango, green papaya, gooseberries, and pomegranate. In green vegetables, sorrel reigns supreme. It is seasonal, although farmed throughout the year today, and communities eagerly wait for them to appear in the vegetable markets.

Gongura is prized for its acidic flavour. The leaves are used throughout the country, but in the Northeast, the flowers are also used. The leaves are best used fresh, but both the leaves and flowers are dried and used in winter when the vegetable can become scarce. One of the theories behind the use of sour vegetables and fruit is the

Gongura can be used as a simple sauteed vegetable, a curry, or a dal.

Here is a lovely, complex curry with chicken that is a traditional dish in Hyderabad and Andhra cuisine. The recipe crosses between the Nawabi and Andhra kitchens and is a wonderful fusion of the two cultures. The sorrel is plentiful and bold, and the dish is pucker-worthy. The chicken is fork-tender and absorbs the tartness of the sorrel. This is a favourite dish on the table and one that all our guests enjoy.

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2 1/2 lb roselle leaves, picked and cleaned

1/2 cup water

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup oil

2 onions, finely diced

2 tablespoons ginger garlic paste

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

2-3 teaspoons chilli powder, or to taste

1 lb chicken, curry cut or pieces of your choice

Salt, to taste

2 cups water

Cilantro to garnish

Green chillies to garnish

Add the roselle leaves, water, and salt to a small blender and purée them into a coarse paste. Set aside. 

Heat the oil and add the onions. Sauté on medium-low heat until the onions are light golden in colour, about 3 minutes. Add the ginger-garlic paste and fry for 1 minute until the ginger no longer smells raw. 

Add the turmeric and chilli powder and give the mix a quick turn. Add the chicken and salt and cook for 4-5 minutes, coating the chicken with the masala and sealing it well. Add the water, bring to a boil, and simmer the chicken for 30 minutes. 

Add the roselle paste and cook for an additional 15 minutes. Taste for salt. The chicken should be very tender at this point. The sauce should be thick and coat the chicken well. It should have a bold tartness, and the oils should pool in small bubbles on the surface. 

Serve hot, garnished with cilantro and chillies with rice or sheermal.