Chicken bastila

Bastila, or basteeya, is an ancient dish. The first time I had this pastry in Marrakesh I was fascinated by the complexity of textures and flavours. Tetouan, nestled in the mountains, is also popularly known for its sophisticated cuisine. Because it was populated mainly by Muslims and Jews fleeing Iberia after 1492, it is one of a handful of Moroccan cities whose foods are said to bear traces of the legendary cuisine of al-Andalus. Bastila is one dish that is often said to descend from this heritage. Historian Idriss Bouhlila acknowledges that most Tetouanis consider bastila to be Andalusi; he suggests that the word itself is of Turkish origin and arrived with the Algerians. “Bouhlila’s study corroborated the theory that the paper-thin ouarka used to make bastila and the dish's name were introduced to Morocco by way of Tetouani cuisine sometime after 1830. For a deeper history of this dish, click here.

This is a lovely, savoury-sweet pastry. It is the most classic recipe I have encountered and definitely one that takes effort. The filo pastry, substituted for the paper-thin ouarka, is crisp and delicate. The inside filling pops with luxurious flavour, the chicken is spiced beautifully, and the almond mix delivers a gentle, sweet punch. This is a wonderful dish and one of my favourites.

This is a fantastic cookbook for Moroccan cuisine from a chef who is a master of the art. Mourad has won a Michelin star and is considered by many to be the originator of contemporary Moroccan cuisine. Bon Appetit has rated this cookbook as one of the world's best in 21011, and it remains one of my favourites. The recipes can be complex, except for a few like this one, but each is divine. I have had dinner at his wonderful restaurant, Aziza, in San Francisco several times, and each time, the experience has been a delight, and the food is outstanding.

For more recipes from this fabulous cookbook, click here.

Ingredients:

For the spice mix:

1/4 cup ground coriander

2 tablespoons ground ginger

1 tablespoon plus one teaspoon ground white pepper

1 tablespoon ground turmeric

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2-1/2 teaspoons saffron threads

1-1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

For the almond mix:

2-1/2 cups whole “skin on” almonds

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg

4-6 tablespoons clarified butter

1-1/2 teaspoon orange blossom water

For the chicken:

1/2 cup grapeseed or canola oil

4 cups onion – about 3-4 whole onions, diced

12 cloves garlic. minced

6 chicken thighs

6 chicken drumsticks or thighs

1 1/4 cup water

Salt, to taste

4 large eggs

Fill pastry

Butter

2 tablespoons parsley 

2 tablespoons cilantro, minced 

9 phyllo sheets

Melted butter

Powdered sugar

Grind the almonds into a fine powder with sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Set aside

Saute the onion in olive oil for ten minutes until very soft but not coloured. Then add the garlic and cook for 3-4 minutes until the garlic is no longer raw. Add all the ingredients for the spice mix, except the parsley and cilantro, and mix in well. Cook for 1-2 minutes until the spices have a lovely soft aroma.

Hat the oven to 375° F.

Add the onions to the base of a baking dish. Top with the chicken and add the water. Cover tightly. Bring to a boil, add to the oven, and bake for 1 hour. Remove from the oven and make sure the chicken is very tender. It should very easily shred between your fingers. Remove and cool completely. Shred the chicken thoroughly, discarding the bones. Beat the eggs and mix into the shredded chicken and sauce.

Add the chicken and onion mix to a pot and heat on low. Whisk the eggs and strain into the pot while continually stirring. You will get a sauce. Cook until the sauce thickens and the eggs are thoroughly cooked. The chicken should be thick and rich, not sloppy. When cooled, mix in the parsley and cilantro.

To make the almond mix, chop the almonds finely. Mix in all the ingredients well. Set aside.

Layer 2 sheets of filo into a small ramekin or larger dish. Add 2 more sheets on the diagonal. Stuff with the shredded chicken and pat down firmly. Sprinkle the almond mix on top or in the centre of the chicken. Wrap the tops of the filo sheets to form a tight packet. Brush the top and bottom with butter.

Layer the filo packets on a baking tray. Bake for 12-15 minutes until the filo sheets are coloured a lovely brown.

Remove and cool slightly. Garnish with a light sprinkling of powdered sugar.