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Green eggplant curry (Mulgayi Palya)
Mulgayi, the green, long eggplant, is loved as a vegetable, like most other eggplant varietals. To be honest, I have never cooked with them before. I have always wondered what they taste like, and once I saw this recipe, I had to experiment with them. Eggplants vary significantly in form; below is a brief description of a few of the wide varieties. Green long eggplants: These are the creamiest eggplants with minimal seeds. The skin is thin, and the flavour is mild and sweet i

kzafarullah
3 hours ago3 min read
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Balinese sticky glazed pork ribs (Iga babi bali)
On my first trip to Bali, about 2 decades ago, I was drawn to these pork ribs, the vendors strategically sitting at corners, the aromas wafting, nay beckoning you at every turn. There was no escaping the glory of these ribs, and I indulged in them a lot. This recipe is reminiscent of those delicious ribs, and having them flashed my memory back to the wonderful markets and street food. Indonesia is the most populous Muslim country outside of the Middle East, and yet in Bali, p

kzafarullah
2 days ago3 min read
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Leek and feta omelette with sumac
Omelettes are comfort food for me. On these lazy evenings, a great omelette, cooked in olive oil, is what I crave, simple and elegant. However, growing up eating tese on the streets of India, I have never got used to the "white omelette", I like them caramelised and crisp. This is a simple omelette with elegant flavours. Leeks add a subtle note to the eggs, and the feta adds a creamy sharpness. The topping of liberal sumac is what makes this dish special. The tartness balance

kzafarullah
3 days ago2 min read
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Stir-fried black long pepper chicken with cashew nuts
This chicken dish is a simple stir-fry dish where the pepper is dominant—the spicy, almost tongue-numbing pepper and the touch of sweet play beautifully with the chicken. The cashew nuts add a luxury feel to the otherwise common dish. This is a simple dish, but one that will disappear from the table quickly. You can serve it as a side with rice or Malay parathas, or wrap it in lettuce leaves for a fresher touch. Malaysia: Recipes from a Family Kitchen is an excellent cookbook

kzafarullah
5 days ago2 min read
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Black long pepper-garlic shrimp
Long black pepper is an ancient spice, most commonly known as Indian long pepper or pippali. It is from the plant Piper longum, and is related to the common round black pepper. History tells us it was the primary pepper used by the Greeks and Roman, making its way from India over long and dangerous trade routes. It was exorbitantly priced because of this. The molecule that we taste as peppery is called piperine. This molecule seems sharper and stronger in long black pepper b

kzafarullah
May 182 min read
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Shiro and shrimp (or scrambled eggs) with rue
In January, I travelled through Ethiopia for 3 weeks, an absolutely amazing experience. There was a mix of history, lots of history, wildlife, tribal communities and of course food. One of the events that my wonderful guide, and now friend, Taffesse, curated for me was a cooking session with Rose in the mountains. Rose taught me about a host of traditional recipes, and of course, shiro. As we left, she walked out with a bag of shiro, a gift, one that has come home with me. I

kzafarullah
May 163 min read
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Andhra broad bean stir-fry (Chikkudukaya vepudu)
Indian broad beans are commonly found across India, and are a favourite. They are seen as huge piles at the market or at a vegetable grocer, and shoppers gather around to pick out the most tender beans. They are also called papdi in Gujarat, Bakla in Bengali, Avarakkai in Tamil, and Kadale kayi in Kannada. Vepudu is a specific cooking technique from Andhra Pradesh, similar to Asian stir-fry. But it differs in that water is usually added to the wok to blanch the vegetables. Th

kzafarullah
May 152 min read
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Japanese tiger melon in two ways: with honey and lime and tagin
I was shopping at my fruit seller, and he popped one of these into my basket. I asked him what these were and he mumbled something, I still have no idea what he said. So here I was at home with a fruit, or pumpkin, and no idea what to do with it. I fed Gemini with an image and was educated. Given that it is called the Japanese tiger melon, or Sakare Sweet, this melon belongs to Central Asia, modern-day Iran and Afghanisthan. They moved along the Silk route Eastwood through Ch

kzafarullah
May 122 min read
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Karwar prawn curry with kokum (Sungta Ambat)
As we travel to the West Coast of India, we reach the region of Karwar, one that is renowned for its cuisine. One of the quintessential dishes of the region is an "Ambat", which translates to "sour". It is a staple in the region: a dish made with a thick coconut base, chillies, and a souring agent, traditionally the local kokum. Kokum (Garcinia Indica) belongs to the mangosteen family and is indigenous to the Western Ghats, where they thrive. It is a small, dark purple fruit

kzafarullah
May 72 min read
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Syrian egg and olive salad
Eggs and olives are a superb combination. The salt of the eggs is balanced by the plainness of the egg whites; they support each other beautifully. This is a traditional salad with a pop of flavour. I chose to serve it more like a deviled egg rather than the traditional tossed salad format, just for visual effect. The sumac adds sourness, the pine nuts add a nutty flavour, and the paprika adds smoky heat. They are all well-balanced, and these are small bites that are deliciou

kzafarullah
May 32 min read
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Chickmangaluru bitter gourd curry (Hagalkal yangai)
I love bittergourd and all bitter foods. It is in my genetic makeup. Here is a basic genetics lesson on the science of bitterness. Humans have 23 pairs of chromosomes. Each chromosome is made up of a double helix of DNA (Deoxyribonucleic Acid). These long DNA molecules have strings of information called genes that, in turn, code for proteins. The proteins are the functional molecules in the body. For bitter taste, the specific proteins involved are called TAS2R proteins, as t

kzafarullah
May 24 min read
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Turkish garlicky okra
Okra is favoured in Turkish cuisine, and interestingly, it is used as a thickener for stews and soups. But, like us in India, they prefer not to have the slimy palate feel. They get around this by adding lemon or lime juice that is added to the dish to prevent the mucilage from forming. This is a simple dish, easy to make yet so delicious. The baby okra is soft and tender, without the slime, and the tomatoes add an acidic, mild sweetness to the dish. It is perfect as a side d

kzafarullah
May 12 min read
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Melon-ginger sorbet
It is hot in Gurgoan, really hot. I have been striving to cool down, and sorbets are one way I have found to keep cool. One of the main reasons I bought my own ice cream maker a few years ago was to be able to make low-sugar ice creams and sorbets. I was getting frustrated by commercial ice creams that load their products with excessive sugar, so I wanted to move past that. The world of ice creams is large and complex. This is my attempt to break this world down as I picture

kzafarullah
Apr 303 min read
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Cold melon-berry soup
Cold soups are the perfect dish for summer, and this one makes the most of sun-ripened melons that flood the market during these hot months. This is an exceedingly simple soup, but one that is superb. The sweet melon, make sure you have an exceedingly ripe melon, is balanced by a touch of heat from the ginger and the freshness of mint. Together, this combination is superb. The strawberries add a nuance of sweet-tart freshness to the soup. This is the perfect chilled soup to k

kzafarullah
Apr 291 min read
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Yunnan eggplant with garlic and chillies
Yunnan is one of the most diverse regions in China in terms of cuisine. It is home to over 25 tribes and communities, each with its own cuisine and distinct ingredients. However, in extremely general terms, there are four main characteristics of the cuisine in this region: Sour: This is derived from pickled vegetables and vinegar. Spicy: The use of fresh chillies and Sichuan peppercorns is common. Herb: The cuisine is heavily scented with fresh herbs, perilla, sawtooth, and c

kzafarullah
Apr 282 min read
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Lamb shank stew (Nalli Nahari)
Nahari (or Nihari) is a rich stew from the Mughal era, the etymology of the word coming from Arabic, "Nahar", which means "day" or "morning". The different spellings of the word come from different regions, but refer to the same stew. Nahari was developed in the kitchens of Old Delhi, specifically Shajahanabad, where the stew was cooked slowly overnight and served as a hearty soup. It started in the royal kitchens, where it is believed that the Nawabs would finish their morni

kzafarullah
Apr 225 min read
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Red pepper, potato, and prosciutto frittata topped with ricotta
It is so hard for me to find good prosciutto in India, so when I occasionally see it, I load up and freeze it. It is like gold to me. Let's start by talking about prosciutto and comparing it to bacon. Prosciutto is from Italy, made from the hind leg of a ham, heavily salted and aged in a cold, temperature-controlled room for 9-24 months. The salt draws out the moisture and concentrates the flavour. It is never smoked. Because of the curing process, prosciutto can be eaten as

kzafarullah
Apr 213 min read
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Raw mango in a sweet tamarind sauce (Pachchi mamidikaya pulusu)
At the heart of Andhra cuisine is a type of curry called the "pulusu", meaning sour. Andhra cuisine uses a number of souring agents: tamarind is the most common, along with roselle (gongura) leaves, lime, dried green mango (aamchoor), and buttermilk. These curries are usually vegetarian and are made with vegetables or lentils. This is a lovely curry that highlights the sourness by using both tamarind and green mangoes. The sweetener is jaggery for an earthy sweetness, and it

kzafarullah
Apr 182 min read
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Thai fried beancurd in sweet nut sauce (Tau hou tod)
People travel, and along with them, they carry ingredients and cooking techniques. This dish highlights this aspect of a movement and migration of communities. The Chinese migrated to Thailand, and with them came deep frying and tofu. But arriving in Thailand, this dish is cooked with its own characteristics and flavours, adapting to the local palate. The tofu is still deep-fried, but the sauce is all regional: peanuts, sugar, and souring vinegar. I loved this dish; it is as

kzafarullah
Apr 172 min read
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Soba noodles with eggplant and mango
This is an Asian-inspired noodle dish made in a contemporary style. It is getting hot in Delhi, so I am making the sudden transition to cooler foods, lighter, more aromatic and cooling. The intense heat stifles the desire to cook and spend time in front of a hot flame, so my dishes are getting simpler. This is a cold dish; the noodles are starchy yet light. The dressing is tart-sweet and has a pop of heat. The roasted eggplant adds a lovely earthiness, and the mango fruit nua

kzafarullah
Apr 152 min read
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