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Lamb shank stew (Nalli Nahari)
Nahari (or Nihari) is a rich stew from the Mughal era, the etymology of the word coming from Arabic, "Nahar", which means "day" or "morning". The different spellings of the word come from different regions, but refer to the same stew. Nahari was developed in the kitchens of Old Delhi, specifically Shajahanabad, where the stew was cooked slowly overnight and served as a hearty soup. It started in the royal kitchens, where it is believed that the Nawabs would finish their morni

kzafarullah
2 hours ago5 min read
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Red pepper, potato, and prosciutto frittata topped with ricotta
It is so hard for me to find good prosciutto in India, so when I occasionally see it, I load up and freeze it. It is like gold to me. Let's start by talking about prosciutto and comparing it to bacon. Prosciutto is from Italy, made from the hind leg of a ham, heavily salted and aged in a cold, temperature-controlled room for 9-24 months. The salt draws out the moisture and concentrates the flavour. It is never smoked. Because of the curing process, prosciutto can be eaten as

kzafarullah
1 day ago3 min read
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Raw mango in a sweet tamarind sauce (Pachchi mamidikaya pulusu)
At the heart of Andhra cuisine is a type of curry called the "pulusu", meaning sour. Andhra cuisine uses a number of souring agents: tamarind is the most common, along with roselle (gongura) leaves, lime, dried green mango (aamchoor), and buttermilk. These curries are usually vegetarian and are made with vegetables or lentils. This is a lovely curry that highlights the sourness by using both tamarind and green mangoes. The sweetener is jaggery for an earthy sweetness, and it

kzafarullah
4 days ago2 min read
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Thai fried beancurd in sweet nut sauce (Tau hou tod)
People travel, and along with them, they carry ingredients and cooking techniques. This dish highlights this aspect of a movement and migration of communities. The Chinese migrated to Thailand, and with them came deep frying and tofu. But arriving in Thailand, this dish is cooked with its own characteristics and flavours, adapting to the local palate. The tofu is still deep-fried, but the sauce is all regional: peanuts, sugar, and souring vinegar. I loved this dish; it is as

kzafarullah
5 days ago2 min read
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Soba noodles with eggplant and mango
This is an Asian-inspired noodle dish made in a contemporary style. It is getting hot in Delhi, so I am making the sudden transition to cooler foods, lighter, more aromatic and cooling. The intense heat stifles the desire to cook and spend time in front of a hot flame, so my dishes are getting simpler. This is a cold dish; the noodles are starchy yet light. The dressing is tart-sweet and has a pop of heat. The roasted eggplant adds a lovely earthiness, and the mango fruit nua

kzafarullah
Apr 152 min read
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Yunnan greens (Sunni cai)
Wok frying is an art: the high heat that singes the food, the fast Maillard reactions, and charring are a must. It is a technique referred to as Wok Hei, or "breath of the wok". The concept is simple: high heat cooks the ingredients quickly, searing the outsides and leaving the insides tender and, in the case of vegetables, crunchy. Cooking on high heat in a wok is not about stirring but about pushing the vegetables from the base, where it is hottest, to the sides, where it i

kzafarullah
Apr 142 min read
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Hyderabadi spinach and lentil curry (Moong aur palak)
Lentils are an important part of the Indian diet nationwide. Every region of the country made lentils in some form or another. Lentils were a source of fibre, micronutrients, and vegetable protein for the country's mainly vegetarian population. Over thirty varieties of lentils are used in dals, sautés, curries, as thickeners, and more, in innumerable varieties of both vegetarian and meat dishes. Indian cuisine would not be what it is without lentils. This is a simple dal, a s

kzafarullah
Apr 123 min read
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Burmese pickled mustard greens
I wanted to make Khao soi , and I realised I couldn't serve the dish without this essential side. Pickled mustard greens are an essential side to the main soup, bright, acidic, and fresh, in contrast to the rich soup. So I looked through my cookbooks and found this recipe, more in the Burmese style, but an acceptable substitute. But pickled mustard greens are more than just a side; they are an essential flavour to the cuisine. Pickles are an essential way to preserve seasonal

kzafarullah
Apr 112 min read
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Beef and lemongrass wrapped in betel leaf (Bò Lá Lốt)
In India, we know of the Paan leaf, Betel leaf, Piper betle , a chew that is beloved by the nation. It is used as a wrap with calcium hydroxide, catechu (which gives the red colour), and araca nut seed, and often with rose jam (gulkand) for a sweet version. There are more varieties, some with tobacco, and various other spices and herbs. These are always chewed raw, and the taste of the beetle leaf is pungent. And then I discovered, with Naomi at her home, Miang kham, the Laot

kzafarullah
Apr 103 min read
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Hyderabadi ground mutton pulao (Kheeme ke khichri)
Most biryanis use chunks of meat, whether they be goat or chicken. This is a common variation where ground mutton is substituted. The biryani is nuanced with flavour, mild and aromatic, in true Nawabi style, rather than bold. The spices are well-balanced and rounded, and the "korma" of the ground mutton is delicate and aromatic. The shah jeera adds a nuanced flavour profile; it beautifully structures the base flavours. This is a simple dish with a regal backdrop, one that sur

kzafarullah
Apr 93 min read
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Penang asam laksa
I love a good laksa. I had my first laksa about 30 years ago, but in Singapore. I was travelling for work, and my team took me out to laksa for dinner. I have had a love affair with the dish ever since. I went back home to Chicago and bought Sri Owen’s cookbook, just for the laksa recipe. It was a dish that I loved so much that I decided to learn how to cook it. I would grind the pastes, gently fry them, and make the soup. My family, at that time, knew when laksa was being ma

kzafarullah
Apr 14 min read
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Bangladeshi mustard okra with potatoes (Shorsher darrosh ar aloo)
Okra is a common vegetable on both the Bangladeshi and Indian tables. It is a cheap vegetable that grows abundantly and is readily available. I love this vegetable and try to make a dish every so often, probably too often for most. This is a simple, everyday vegetable that is delicious. The cooking technique is quite unique. On the subcontinent, we do not prefer okra to be slimy, as it is served in gumbo, but rather crisp. This dish deviates from the traditional style, as the

kzafarullah
Mar 292 min read
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Quick-fried shrimp with sweet, toasty garlic (Camarones al mojo de ajo)
This is a simple Mexican recipe that highlights the sweetness of garlic, which is used in abundance. The first step in the recipe is to slow cook the garlic, tonnes of it, in olive oil on a low heat, allowing the garlic to confit and release its sweetness. The chillies come next, adding notes of smokiness and a pop of mild heat. It is a lovely dish that is both rich and complex. I served it over a Carrot and cilantro pancake to temper the spices. This was a lovely small plat

kzafarullah
Mar 282 min read
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Fricasseed chicken with herbs and sun-dried tomatoes (Pollo in friccassea con gli odori e i pomodoro secchi)
I love the technique of friccasse, a slow braise of meat. It is generally referred to as the "white braise" because of the dish's light colour. The term is derived from the French "frire," meaning "to fry," and "casser," meaning "to break into pieces." The technique involves lightly frying the meat, usually chicken, veal, or rabbit, to seal in the juices, then braising it in a liquid, usually white wine or stock. The sauce is thickened with egg yolks or cream, depending on th

kzafarullah
Mar 262 min read
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Baked Apples with Spices, Olive Oil and Nuts
This is a simple but elegant dessert; most importantly, it uses very little sugar. Apples are a favourite in the French culinary world, and this is a lovely dish thatexpresses the beauty of the fruit. The apples are soft, but the texture is highlighted by the nuts' bite in the stuffing. The addition of cinnamon, so traditional, makes this dish familiar and soulful. It is very low in sugar, with sweetness coming from the natural sugars in the apples and the apple juice that tu

kzafarullah
Mar 252 min read
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Chiang Mai curry noodles (Khao Soi)
Let's start with some history of this dish. It arrived via Yunnanese Chinese Muslim traders, the Chin Haw, through Myanmar and Laos. They settled in Northern Thailand, specifically in the Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai regions. As it travelled through Myanmar, it picked up strong Burmese characteristics, particularly from the dish Ohn No Khao Swe, which translates to "coconut milk noodles". The name Khao soi means "cut noodles", and the origins of this name are still disputed. One

kzafarullah
Mar 93 min read
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Assamese tomato tenga
Tomato tenga is a standard dish on my Sister-in-Law, Sameena's, table. It is made often, and I always look forward to it. I tuck it into white rice and enjoy just this combination. Tenga, meaning "sour", belongs to a class of sour curries made with vegetables such as elephant apple, limes, or mangosteen. However, tomatoes are the most common variety seen. This is a simple curry, not too many spices, and the simplicity of the flavour is what makes it delicious. The potato se

kzafarullah
Mar 52 min read
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Indonesian spiced corn fritters (Perkedel jagung)
Corn is a staple grain in Indonesia, second only to rice. It is essential to the cuisines and is used in many dishes, especially in street food and smaller snacks. Here is a very traditional dish that is the perfect small bite. This is a lovely snack; the corn pops with sweetness, and the spices complement it wonderfully. The aroma of kaffir lime is unmistakable, and the other spices make the fritter pop. This is a dish that depends on the perfect balance of sweet, herb and s

kzafarullah
Mar 32 min read
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Mozambique shrimp and okra with piri piri
The Portuguese arrived in Mozambique as a trading stop and gradually occupied the nation for about 470 years, one of the most brutal occupations in history. Vasco da Gama stopped in Mozambique on the way to India in 1498. It was a stop to refuel and rest. What he found was a vibrant trading community between the Arabs and the Swahili communities. By 1505, the Portuguese had taken over the island and controlled the trade in ivory and gold from Africa. They set up a system of "

kzafarullah
Mar 23 min read
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Sri Lankan blackened chicken curry (Kalu kukul mas curry)
We made this curry in Sri Lanka with Chef Peper Kuruvita during one of his many cooking demonstrations. I fell in love with this curry; it is unique. Kalu kukul mas curry literally translates to "blackened chicken", and is a classic village-style dish in Sri Lanka. It is most popular around Galle and the southern Western region of the island, where spices grow abundantly. As history tells us, this is an ancient curry, pre-dating Colonialism and dating back to Buddhist times.

kzafarullah
Feb 222 min read
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