This dish highlights rustic cooking with local ingredients that are so common on the island. The ingredients are local, goat or lamb from the hills, anchovies from the sea and ingredients from the land. The richness of the goat is cut by the anchovies' umami; it truly is a beautiful combination. The rosemary adds a lovely aroma and herby flavour, and the lime, a tang. The Italian concept of agrodolce is highlighted in the recipe, the use of sharp, salty and acidic elements i

Raita is the perfect foil for biryani. The rice is rich and greasy, the spices can be bold, and the dish is hot. Raita is the complete contrast, cold or room temperature, mild or even sweet, cooling and opening to the palate. The only requirement for a raita is yoghurt; it can contain almost anything else: vegetables, fresh or fried, fried lentils or lentil products, fruit, and, of course, lots of spices and herbs. They are usually simple to make, and an Indian table is almos

Fritters are amazing, and almost every culture in the world has a fritter of some type, either sweet or savoury. They also vary from being deep-fried to shallow-fried, the latter being almost feather-like and flaky. Vegetable fritters are among my favourite dishes; there are so many variations that highlight the vegetables' flavours. This is a simple and lovely fritter. The carrot is still chewy and crisp, I love that, and the cilantro adds a herby nuance to the dish. Nigel S