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Karwar prawn curry with kokum (Sungta Ambat)
As we travel to the West Coast of India, we reach the region of Karwar, one that is renowned for its cuisine. One of the quintessential dishes of the region is an "Ambat", which translates to "sour". It is a staple in the region: a dish made with a thick coconut base, chillies, and a souring agent, traditionally the local kokum. Kokum (Garcinia Indica) belongs to the mangosteen family and is indigenous to the Western Ghats, where they thrive. It is a small, dark purple fruit

kzafarullah
12 minutes ago2 min read


Syrian egg and olive salad
Eggs and olives are a superb combination. The salt of the eggs is balanced by the plainness of the egg whites; they support each other beautifully. This is a traditional salad with a pop of flavour. I chose to serve it more like a deviled egg rather than the traditional tossed salad format, just for visual effect. The sumac adds sourness, the pine nuts add a nutty flavour, and the paprika adds smoky heat. They are all well-balanced, and these are small bites that are deliciou

kzafarullah
4 days ago2 min read


Chickmangaluru bitter gourd curry (Hagalkal yangai)
I love bittergourd and all bitter foods. It is in my genetic makeup. Here is a basic genetics lesson on the science of bitterness. Humans have 23 pairs of chromosomes. Each chromosome is made up of a double helix of DNA (Deoxyribonucleic Acid). These long DNA molecules have strings of information called genes that, in turn, code for proteins. The proteins are the functional molecules in the body. For bitter taste, the specific proteins involved are called TAS2R proteins, as t

kzafarullah
5 days ago4 min read


Turkish garlicky okra
Okra is favoured in Turkish cuisine, and interestingly, it is used as a thickener for stews and soups. But, like us in India, they prefer not to have the slimy palate feel. They get around this by adding lemon or lime juice that is added to the dish to prevent the mucilage from forming. This is a simple dish, easy to make yet so delicious. The baby okra is soft and tender, without the slime, and the tomatoes add an acidic, mild sweetness to the dish. It is perfect as a side d

kzafarullah
6 days ago2 min read


Melon-ginger sorbet
It is hot in Gurgoan, really hot. I have been striving to cool down, and sorbets are one way I have found to keep cool. One of the main reasons I bought my own ice cream maker a few years ago was to be able to make low-sugar ice creams and sorbets. I was getting frustrated by commercial ice creams that load their products with excessive sugar, so I wanted to move past that. The world of ice creams is large and complex. This is my attempt to break this world down as I picture

kzafarullah
Apr 303 min read


Cold melon-berry soup
Cold soups are the perfect dish for summer, and this one makes the most of sun-ripened melons that flood the market during these hot months. This is an exceedingly simple soup, but one that is superb. The sweet melon, make sure you have an exceedingly ripe melon, is balanced by a touch of heat from the ginger and the freshness of mint. Together, this combination is superb. The strawberries add a nuance of sweet-tart freshness to the soup. This is the perfect chilled soup to k

kzafarullah
Apr 291 min read


Yunnan eggplant with garlic and chillies
Yunnan is one of the most diverse regions in China in terms of cuisine. It is home to over 25 tribes and communities, each with its own cuisine and distinct ingredients. However, in extremely general terms, there are four main characteristics of the cuisine in this region: Sour: This is derived from pickled vegetables and vinegar. Spicy: The use of fresh chillies and Sichuan peppercorns is common. Herb: The cuisine is heavily scented with fresh herbs, perilla, sawtooth, and c

kzafarullah
Apr 282 min read


Lamb shank stew (Nalli Nahari)
Nahari (or Nihari) is a rich stew from the Mughal era, the etymology of the word coming from Arabic, "Nahar", which means "day" or "morning". The different spellings of the word come from different regions, but refer to the same stew. Nahari was developed in the kitchens of Old Delhi, specifically Shajahanabad, where the stew was cooked slowly overnight and served as a hearty soup. It started in the royal kitchens, where it is believed that the Nawabs would finish their morni

kzafarullah
Apr 225 min read


Red pepper, potato, and prosciutto frittata topped with ricotta
It is so hard for me to find good prosciutto in India, so when I occasionally see it, I load up and freeze it. It is like gold to me. Let's start by talking about prosciutto and comparing it to bacon. Prosciutto is from Italy, made from the hind leg of a ham, heavily salted and aged in a cold, temperature-controlled room for 9-24 months. The salt draws out the moisture and concentrates the flavour. It is never smoked. Because of the curing process, prosciutto can be eaten as

kzafarullah
Apr 213 min read


Raw mango in a sweet tamarind sauce (Pachchi mamidikaya pulusu)
At the heart of Andhra cuisine is a type of curry called the "pulusu", meaning sour. Andhra cuisine uses a number of souring agents: tamarind is the most common, along with roselle (gongura) leaves, lime, dried green mango (aamchoor), and buttermilk. These curries are usually vegetarian and are made with vegetables or lentils. This is a lovely curry that highlights the sourness by using both tamarind and green mangoes. The sweetener is jaggery for an earthy sweetness, and it

kzafarullah
Apr 182 min read


Thai fried beancurd in sweet nut sauce (Tau hou tod)
People travel, and along with them, they carry ingredients and cooking techniques. This dish highlights this aspect of a movement and migration of communities. The Chinese migrated to Thailand, and with them came deep frying and tofu. But arriving in Thailand, this dish is cooked with its own characteristics and flavours, adapting to the local palate. The tofu is still deep-fried, but the sauce is all regional: peanuts, sugar, and souring vinegar. I loved this dish; it is as

kzafarullah
Apr 172 min read


Soba noodles with eggplant and mango
This is an Asian-inspired noodle dish made in a contemporary style. It is getting hot in Delhi, so I am making the sudden transition to cooler foods, lighter, more aromatic and cooling. The intense heat stifles the desire to cook and spend time in front of a hot flame, so my dishes are getting simpler. This is a cold dish; the noodles are starchy yet light. The dressing is tart-sweet and has a pop of heat. The roasted eggplant adds a lovely earthiness, and the mango fruit nua

kzafarullah
Apr 152 min read


Yunnan greens (Sunni cai)
Wok frying is an art: the high heat that singes the food, the fast Maillard reactions, and charring are a must. It is a technique referred to as Wok Hei, or "breath of the wok". The concept is simple: high heat cooks the ingredients quickly, searing the outsides and leaving the insides tender and, in the case of vegetables, crunchy. Cooking on high heat in a wok is not about stirring but about pushing the vegetables from the base, where it is hottest, to the sides, where it i

kzafarullah
Apr 142 min read


Hyderabadi spinach and lentil curry (Moong aur palak)
Lentils are an important part of the Indian diet nationwide. Every region of the country made lentils in some form or another. Lentils were a source of fibre, micronutrients, and vegetable protein for the country's mainly vegetarian population. Over thirty varieties of lentils are used in dals, sautés, curries, as thickeners, and more, in innumerable varieties of both vegetarian and meat dishes. Indian cuisine would not be what it is without lentils. This is a simple dal, a s

kzafarullah
Apr 123 min read


Burmese pickled mustard greens
I wanted to make Khao soi , and I realised I couldn't serve the dish without this essential side. Pickled mustard greens are an essential side to the main soup, bright, acidic, and fresh, in contrast to the rich soup. So I looked through my cookbooks and found this recipe, more in the Burmese style, but an acceptable substitute. But pickled mustard greens are more than just a side; they are an essential flavour to the cuisine. Pickles are an essential way to preserve seasonal

kzafarullah
Apr 112 min read


Beef and lemongrass wrapped in betel leaf (Bò Lá Lốt)
In India, we know of the Paan leaf, Betel leaf, Piper betle , a chew that is beloved by the nation. It is used as a wrap with calcium hydroxide, catechu (which gives the red colour), and araca nut seed, and often with rose jam (gulkand) for a sweet version. There are more varieties, some with tobacco, and various other spices and herbs. These are always chewed raw, and the taste of the beetle leaf is pungent. And then I discovered, with Naomi at her home, Miang kham, the Laot

kzafarullah
Apr 103 min read


Hyderabadi ground mutton pulao (Kheeme ke khichri)
Most biryanis use chunks of meat, whether they be goat or chicken. This is a common variation where ground mutton is substituted. The biryani is nuanced with flavour, mild and aromatic, in true Nawabi style, rather than bold. The spices are well-balanced and rounded, and the "korma" of the ground mutton is delicate and aromatic. The shah jeera adds a nuanced flavour profile; it beautifully structures the base flavours. This is a simple dish with a regal backdrop, one that sur

kzafarullah
Apr 93 min read


Penang asam laksa
I love a good laksa. I had my first laksa about 30 years ago, but in Singapore. I was travelling for work, and my team took me out to laksa for dinner. I have had a love affair with the dish ever since. I went back home to Chicago and bought Sri Owen’s cookbook, just for the laksa recipe. It was a dish that I loved so much that I decided to learn how to cook it. I would grind the pastes, gently fry them, and make the soup. My family, at that time, knew when laksa was being ma

kzafarullah
Apr 14 min read


Bangladeshi mustard okra with potatoes (Shorsher darrosh ar aloo)
Okra is a common vegetable on both the Bangladeshi and Indian tables. It is a cheap vegetable that grows abundantly and is readily available. I love this vegetable and try to make a dish every so often, probably too often for most. This is a simple, everyday vegetable that is delicious. The cooking technique is quite unique. On the subcontinent, we do not prefer okra to be slimy, as it is served in gumbo, but rather crisp. This dish deviates from the traditional style, as the

kzafarullah
Mar 292 min read


Quick-fried shrimp with sweet, toasty garlic (Camarones al mojo de ajo)
This is a simple Mexican recipe that highlights the sweetness of garlic, which is used in abundance. The first step in the recipe is to slow cook the garlic, tonnes of it, in olive oil on a low heat, allowing the garlic to confit and release its sweetness. The chillies come next, adding notes of smokiness and a pop of mild heat. It is a lovely dish that is both rich and complex. I served it over a Carrot and cilantro pancake to temper the spices. This was a lovely small plat

kzafarullah
Mar 282 min read
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